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HANBOK: COSTUME OF THE WIND

 

 

 

HANBOK – KAE-RYANG HANBOK – NEO-HANBOK

 

Hanbok is the traditional costume of Korea. It is witness of the culture and tradition of the country, and a symbol of the national identity of Korea. Over time, the Hanbok has undergone various changes throughout its more than 1,600 year history, Hanbok we know today was consolidated during the Joseon Dynasty (1392~1910), we worn until the 1960s. The hanbok is a costume that, in its generous curves, voluminous look and well combination colors, expresses all the elegance of the Korean style.

Hanbok typically worn by women is composed of a short jacket ‘Jeogori’ and high-waist wrap-around skirt called ‘Chima’. And men’s Hanbok consists of a normal jacket and wide pants, called ‘Baji’. Hanbok worn according to social class, and also were different hairstyles and accessories.

Following the Korean War (1950-1953), Western-style clothes were commercialized in Korea, Hanbok began to lose in the mainstream of fashion the reason of uncomfortable. So Hanbok became for most people a costume worn exclusively for special occasions, especially traditional holidays and ceremonies. However, we have always efforts to modern reinterpretations of the traditional Hanbok design. And also Hanbok continues to receive growing international attention, including France’s Le Monde, which called the Hanbok a ‘Costume of the wind,’ praising the way the clothes drape over the natural curves of the body in smooth, flowing lines while retaining an airy, voluminous look.

KAE-RYANG HANBOK

 

In the late 1990s, people adopted a new Hanbok style that focused on comfort design much like in the basic frame of traditional Hanbok. In this period, many Koreans deploy Hanbok as costumes in a public performance of political and national identity. This new style we called ‘Kae-ryang hanbok’, it means ‘reformed Korean clothing’. Rebecca concluded that the new hanbok styles were part of a repertoire for the performance and consumption of nationalist identity, available to all Koreans but used especially by activists. I agree with her analysis of the situation, ‘Kae-ryang hanbok’ in the ’90 style, it was popular among the older generations, they wore in a special situation strategically or to reveal their’s character. (ex. Activist Nationalism, Politician)

Korea was under the control of the Japanese emperor from 1910 until closing day of World War II, after liberation from Japanese rule we had a Korean War and then divided two country. So, historically and until now, we had so many opposition movement, called ‘un-dong’; a movement for the emancipation, nationalistic movement, a pro-democracy movement, women’s rights, the environment.. South Korea’s civil society is as young as its democracy. This original prototypical ‘un-dong’ is a postcolonial, nationalistic movement. The primary purpose of the ‘un-dong’ is to represent the spirit of the everlasting Korean folk, the common people.

The new styles of Hanbok originated in the democracy movement, were most often worn by students, artists, activists like feminists and those with 'consciousness'. Of course that not all the clothing choices an activist makes are necessarily political. In the mass-market settings, the new Hanbok major selling points are its comfort and convenience, and its capacity for reawakening Korea’s national pride. About a year later, began to replace ‘reformed’ with the term ‘lifestyle’, hence its suitability for ordinary life.

NEO-HANBOK

 

In recent years, have some efforts in incorporating Hanbok into everyday wardrobe in young generation. A movement has arisen as to wear the Hanbok on ordinary days, Hanbok lovers have been campaigning to revitalize Hanbok, young designers present new style to better fit modern work environments. This change is different changes in earlier that as public performance of political and national identity. The young generation was fascinated by the unique beauty of Hanbok and choose it. The outfits are more practical and contemporary, cuts and colors attract attention.

According to the statistics, the biggest reason why people do not own

a Hanbok is its high price and lack of the need for the traditional clothes.

People are interested in Hanbok but is considered uncomfortable luxury,

further does not have an occasion to feel the need to won or wear. 

To overcome these problems, young designers designed use only a partial

design get a motif inspired by Hanbok details, dress up coordinate with

a Western top and bottoms, and use a inexpensive materials like cotton

and linen. Hwang Yi-Seul, one of the designer who enthusiastically

trying to improve Hanbok by interpreting Hanbok in new perspective,

she designs a wear that both appealing in design and is easy to incorporate

into everyday wardrobe. She’s Hanbok uses cotton along with polyester,

nylon, acrly, so easy to take care of, and one big different is that a traditional thing are there is no need to wear underskirt. Skirts are shorter and less puffy to make it appropriate for everyday life. By popular demand and with the flow of time, like this, the change in the Hanbok is constantly being tried.  

Carolina Herrera NYFW Show in 2011: Heavily Hanbok-inspired
Chanle Cruise Show in 2015: Reinterpreted the Hanbok
A New Class of Hanbok - INOJUDAN


Reference

http://fashioninkorea.org/watch-out-for-neo-hanbok-brand-leesle-hwang-yi-seuls-delightful-rush-into-the-global-market/
http://www.vogue.com/13364765/hanbok-street-style-seoul-korean-traditional-dress/
http://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2015/02/19/387567486/korean-tailors-try-to-keep-the-lunar-new-year-hanbok-ritual-alive
Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress, Berg Publishers, 2003, pp. 117-134
 

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